Wines made from Counoise grapes of Vin de Pays
Discover the best wines made with Counoise as a single variety or as a blend of Vin de Pays.
Counoise is a black grape variety of Spanish origin. It is widely cultivated in the southern part of France. It is very similar to the aubun, with which it is often confused, and has a white cottony bud. Unlike the aubun, the leaves of this variety do not have teeth in the petiolar sinus. They are thick and large. Its bunches are medium-sized but its berries are large. It is advisable to prune it short so that it is productive. It matures in the second half of the year, but production depends on the vintage. This grape variety appreciates hillside terroirs, which are stony and warm. It fears grey rot without being sensitive to oidium and mildew. Counoise has two approved clones, 508 and 725. The wine obtained from Counoise is not very colourful. It is fine and fruity. Its aromas are diversified with notes of fruit, flowers and spices.
Vin de Pays (VDP), the French national equivalent of PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) at the European level, is a quality category of French wines, positioned between Vin de Table (VDT) and Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC). This layer of the French appellation system was initially introduced in September 1968 by the INAO, the official appellation authority. It underwent several early revisions in the 1970s, followed by substantial changes in September 2000 and again in 2009, when all existing VDT titles were automatically registered with the European Union as PGI. Producers retain the choice of using either the VDP or PGI titles on their labels, or both - in the form "IGP-Vin de Pays".
Julien and Nadia d’Abrigeon stood before me like new parents: proud, exhausted, thrilled. Tasting with them in their rented cellar space, I shared their excitement for their new arrivals. It’s not often you get to taste the first vintage of a new domaine, especially not one so promising. We’d just returned from visiting their vineyards in the village of Buisson. Not so long ago, this was an undesirable location. Cairanne and Rasteau inhabit the sun-warmed southern face of the Ventabren massif, w ...
It’s easy to forget that the southern Rhône’s four most prevalent red varieties aren’t indigenous. Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre all appear to originate from Spain; Syrah made its way down the river from the northern Rhône. Of the long tail of other grapes, most have their roots closer to home. Plantings have dwindled in recent years, but today local varieties are experiencing renewed interest. One that’s finding a lot of fans – both in the Rhône and further afield – is Counoise. Scroll down ...
Onwards, upwards. The roads get narrower, the corners get tighter. I step out of the car when I finally reach the winery and the air is so much fresher here. I go to take a sip from my water bottle and a gust of wind makes it whistle. I stand with Thomas Jullien and we look over the vineyards. It’s not yet spring, and the vines look little more than sticks. ‘It’s a lunar landscape at the moment,’ he says, as a friend’s flock of 300 sheep has just passed through to graze on every scrap of green b ...